Angst in the Kitchen

You know how in romantic comedies about cooking, the main actress always falls in love after being a bitter woman and then her food becomes marvelous and everyone has hearts in their eyes after they eat it? I was the main character last night, but after my weekend... all I had in me was major dislike. And so I needed to make something completely involved and fussy to decompress. So I scrounged through the freezer/fridge to see what ingredients I had on hand for a decent Sunday night meal. (It had to include onions because I need to chop to my heart's content without being corrected on my chopping skills.) Weirdly enough, I had a half a bag of prunes that became the inspiration for this southwestern French menu: Braised Pork Loin with prunes, Farro Risotto, and Glazed Carrots.

Magically, all that bitterness came out flavored like love and I felt like I was in a cheesy movie.

Out of aversion and lots of hostility, I somehow made a dinner that earned the praise of my husband as "probably the best meal I have ever made." For someone so spoiled with good food, that is high praise.

Make this. Make it for company and impress them with your culinary skills. Or make it show your husband how much you love him when really all you can think about is how you can't stand his mother.

(This picture stinks because I had already started eating, but then realized how good it was and thought it was worthy of recording. So I took it in haste to get back to my meal. I wish you could see how pretty it really was.)

Braised Pork Loin with Prunes

Gourmet January 2006; originally published 1951

Notes: I used about 2/3 less prunes and it was fine. I also used Cognac. Much easier to find and its a neighbor of Armagnac so it makes no difference. I didn't need that much cooking time, so make use of your thermometer. I took about 5 minutes off the first braise and 10 off the second.

1/4 cup olive oil
2 lb onions (6 to 8 medium), halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced lengthwise
1 head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 cups pitted prunes (14 oz)
1 cup Armagnac
1 (3- to 3 1/2-lb) boneless center-cut pork loin roast (3 to 4 inches in diameter), tied
10 fresh parsley stems
2 large fresh thyme sprigs
1 large fresh sage sprig
1 California bay leaf or 2 Turkish
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
1/3 cup Dijon mustard
1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth (8 fl oz)
2 to 3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

Special equipment: a 5-qt heavy pot with lid (round or oval to accommodate a 12-inch roast; see cooks' note, below); a 6-inch square of cheesecloth; kitchen string; an instant-read thermometer; heavy-duty foil

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 5-quart pot over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook onions, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft and golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer onions to a bowl and reserve pot.
Simmer prunes and Armagnac in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Make a hole for stuffing: Insert a long thin sharp knife into middle of one end toward center of loin, then repeat at opposite end to make an incision that runs lengthwise through roast. Enlarge incision with your fingers, working from both ends, to create a 3/4-inch-wide opening.
Pack about 20 prunes into pork, pushing from both ends toward center (reserve remaining Armagnac and prunes). Pat pork dry and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 375°F.
Wrap parsley, thyme, sage, bay leaf, peppercorns, and cloves in cheesecloth and tie into a bundle with kitchen string.

Brush pork with mustard, then evenly coat with brown sugar. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in reserved pot over high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown meat on all sides (not ends), reducing heat if necessary to keep from burning, about 6 minutes total.
Transfer pork with tongs to a plate, then add white wine and reserved Armagnac (but not prunes) to pot. Bring to a boil, then remove from heat.

Add broth, onions, and cheesecloth bundle to pot with Armagnac mixture, then add pork with any juices accumulated on plate and turn pork fat side up. Bring to a boil over high heat, covered, then transfer to oven and braise 30 minutes.

Add remaining prunes and braise until thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into meat (avoid stuffing) registers 150°F, about 15 minutes.
Transfer pork to a cutting board and cut off and discard string, then cover with heavy-duty foil (temperature of pork will rise as it stands).

While pork stands, skim fat from surface of sauce (if necessary) and remove and discard cheesecloth bundle, then stir in vinegar and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste.

Cooks' note: If you don't have a 5-quart heavy pot, onions and pork can be browned separately in a 12-inch heavy skillet, then transferred with remaining ingredients to a deep 13- by 9-inch roasting pan, tightly covered with heavy-duty foil, and braised in oven.